'Dulcet Tones' Dolcetto 2021
'Dulcet Tones' Dolcetto 2021
For several years I had been following a vineyard and producer located just outside Daylesford, intrigued by its small size and the fact that it was planted to Italian varieties, an anomaly for the Macedon region. In addition to the elevated cool-climate location, I was excited about the fact that Mount Franklin Estate was planted on 500,000-year-old volcanic soils. After several years of asking, the owners Julie & Peter relented in 2021 in selling me some fruit, and I was beyond thrilled with the result.
Dolcetto is a variety found almost exclusively in the Piedmont region of north-western Italy and is commonly the first red variety to be harvested each year. Perhaps a bit unfairly, the wine it produces is often consumed while waiting for your Nebbiolo to be ready, thanks to its lightness and freshness in youth. There is some conjecture about the origin of the name dolcetto, that though commonly assumed to mean '“little sweet” (which many people incorrectly think means the wine will be sweet), it actually refers to the hills where it is grown.
Very early one cold April morning the fruit was hand-picked and entirely de-stemmed back at the winery. After five days soaking it still hadn’t started fermenting due to the very low temperature, so a neutral yeast was added to start fermentation. Pressing was performed once fermentation was complete, then the wine went into two brand-new 750L Slavonian casks that were coopered by famed Italian company Garbelotto. After malolactic fermentation was completed, the wine was racked and returned to three mature French oak casks until blending and bottling in November of 2021.
Though dark in colour this is a light, bright and fresh red wine that still manages to pack a punch. Blackberries, dark cherries and violets entice on the nose, and crunchy tannins and acidity excite the palate.
Lisa Cardelli - Wine Pilot
”The fruit for this wine was sourced from the volcanic soils of Macedon Ranges, at the property of Mount Franklin Estate. The luminous purple colour and the aromas on the nose are speaking of Dolcetto: black cherries, black plums, cranberries, dried Mediterranean herbs, violets. The powdery tannins (after all Dolcetto is considered the cousin of Nebbiolo) frame the black and red fruit, and sweet spices from the oak, of this “little sweet” one (translated from the Italian Dolcetto). Good length and varietal character. Bravo James!” 93 points
Stuart Knox - The Real Review
”A deep and vibrant purple hue. Blackberry and vanilla cola aromatics. The palate sits on a higher and tighter spectrum than the nose suggests, blue and red fruits, with a crunch of acidity and firm granular tannins bringing compression and drive to carry it long. Sits very much in the pocket of the varietal expectations and will work well with food.” 91 points
Campbell Mattinson - The Wine Front
”As fresh-faced and fresh-fruited as they come. It has that all-important crunchiness to its acidity but it also feels soft in the mouth; dulcet by name and dulcet by mouthfeel. Cherries red and black, florals, twiggy herbs/spice and a general raciness. Nice one. It’s a refreshing red, done quite deliciously well.” 91 points
Steve Leszczynski - QWineReviews
”A bundle of happiness awaiting a big slab of lasagne. A full glass with a casual meal or a lazy night in front of the television watching some trashy reality program is all that is required. A Dolcetto from the Macedon Ranges and James Scarcebrook's first foray into the region, this is a joyous wine as it bounds along carefree. Red cherries, a touch of blackberry leaf plus some red currants elevate the enjoyment levels. With an unmissable crunch, it slowly dries out leading to a softly spiced finish. A great slurp!” 91 points
Jane Faulkner - Wine Companion
”A pleasant surprise as this has both upfront fruit flavour and savoury attributes. Lots of florals – think rose and lavender with raspberry and cherry accents, plus plenty of tangy/tart acidity. Uncomplicated and highly enjoyable.” 89 points
Andrew Graham - Oz Wine Review
”Love the name. This is dulcet drinking, as Dolcetto can be. Fruit is sourced from Mount Franklin Estate in the Macedon Ranges, with the restless James Scarcebrook getting into the silken vibe in the winery. Lovely red-violet colour, the style is very light, gentle, spritzy and easy, driven by lightness and acidity. It’s an easy nouveau style with lucid red fruits, though blink and it’s gone – there isn’t much to linger. I like the style and intent though.” 89 points
Bronze Medal - Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show 2022
