Pinot Grigio
Also known as Pinot Gris or Grauburgunder, this is one of the more widely planted grape varieties in Europe. Thought to be a mutation of the red grape Pinot Noir, when ripe it tends to have a pinkish-grey colour, hence the name. Pinot Grigio can be found in a number of different parts of Italy, however the best examples come from cooler regions like Alto-Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The benefits of growing this variety in these regions are that grapes can be allowed to ripen slower and later, providing ripe and rich fruit flavours whilst preserving the acidity. This is no different in Australia, which is why Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy established their winery T’Gallant on the Mornington Peninsula, to produce world-class Pinot Gris/Grigio.
Fiano
It is believed that a wine produced in Ancient Rome came from Avellino in Campania and was made from Fiano. The wine was called Apianum, a derivation of ape meaning bee. Part of the reason they believe this wine was made from the Fiano grape is that it has a rich golden colour when ripe that is very attractive to bees. Though Fiano can be found across the south of Italy, it is Avellino where it is at it’s best, influenced by volcanic soils, elevation and also proximity to the coast. Fiano has been planted very widely in Australia, particularly in South Australia and Victoria, in a range of different climates. The best examples of Fiano I have tasted in Australia come from coastal regions like the McLaren Vale and the Mornington Peninsula, and its structure in the glass is reminiscent of Chardonnay.
Vermentino
Vermentino is one of several grapes in Italy (and France) that can be found in a number of different regions and by several names. In Piedmont it is called Favorita, in Liguria sometimes Pigato, in Provence it is commonly called Rolle, and on the island of Corsica it is spelled Vermentinu. What I love about the best examples from places like Sardinia and Liguria is though vibrant and fresh they are inherently textural, often showing salinity. Even though this is a common characteristic of the grape itself, it is particularly noticeable in examples grown in coastal areas. Now one of the most important Italian white varieties planted in Australia, Vermentino is found in almost every wine-producing state, in a myriad of different climates and soil profiles, resulting in an incredible diversity of styles.
Sangiovese
The most grown grape variety in Italy is Sangiovese, with the vast majority coming from the central regions of Tuscany, Umbria, The Marche and Romagna. Unsurprisingly it is also the most adaptable; often on its own but also blended with 10-50% other varieties; produces an incredible array of different expressions of red wine, from lighter fresher styles to deep brooding examples; similarly one of the best options for producing rose with. Sangiovese adapts very well to its environment but it doesn’t like it too cold (it struggles to ripen) or too hot (it ripens too quickly). The grape has taken a very prominent position in Australia, and some have argued that it could be the unheralded great Australian variety.
Sagrantino
The Italian region of Umbria is the only one that is both landlocked and borders with no other country. It also produces some of the darkest and most tannic red wines in the world. For these reasons I refer to Umbria as the beating red heart of Italy. The hills of Montefalco are where Sagrantino can be found, historically used to make sweet passito wines that were often donated to the local monastery. Sagrantino is a very special red variety in that it is a teinturier grape; not only does it have red/black skin but it also has coloured flesh and juice. This is what gives the wine such deep colour and intense tannins.
Nebbiolo
It is unclear whether the Nebbiolo grape originated in Piedmont or Lombardia, but it is unquestionable that the most famous place for it is the former, particularly in the Langhe region. Commonly considered to be the noblest of all Italian varieties, it requires quite specific growing conditions, most importantly a cool ripening season in order for the subtle characters to develop slowly. Sometimes called Chiavennasca or Spanna, Nebbiolo typically has thin light-coloured skin, yet produces very structured and tannic wines, albeit in a lighter more Pinot-like mould. Considering the esteem in which wines like Barolo and Barbaresco are held, it’s hardly surprising that the variety has been in Australia longer than most, however many believe that we are yet to find its true home here.